Film developing chemicals reddit I usually load film ahead of time since it only takes a few minutes and then turn the water bath on so later it’s ready. My recommendations: Neat. Sep 23, 2021 · Get a dozen rolls, choose one developer and stick with that film and developer combination for a while -- like six months. I'm on my first roll of colour, so yeah, looking for places to develop as well. Color is actually easier to develop as most kits are a 2-3 step process and C-41 is a standardized process so all chemistry works the same. Chemical Reuse - Processing with Weakened Developer Solution Using a volume of chemicals once will not destroy its ability to develop film. 50. Developer: I use Ilford's Ilfotec DD-X. The canister allows him to put in chemicals without exposing the film to light. 38 to develop a roll. cafe There are three types of film that you can develop at home: black and white negative film, color negative film, and slide film. (usually 68 degrees F) a squeegee to help dry the film, a dust free environment (I use my shower), a way to hang the film. Not sure what the color chemicals cost vs. I understand I’m using different film speeds and different chemicals, but it just seems like a lot more time. Additionally, why not try to develop yourself? I know that this has come up many times in this sub, but I am looking for advice to start developing c-41 color film on my own. the chemicals have been hot for 2 hours already and he might be gone for 2 more hours since he lives far from the city. A 16oz bottle of Rodinal costs around $11. Liquid concentrate (easy to mix), works great for normal developing or push processing (using film at a higher ISO speed than it is rated at). Developers like D76, Rodinal, and HC110 will do most films. For 120, 1-2 depends on the format. Hi all, I do film photography as a hobby, and recently got into home film developing. I already have a darkroom and I have developed around maybe 30+ rolls of black and white film in 120 and 35mm. This thread seems to list all the places relevant to film photography in India. Color film developing chemicals have gotten a little more lenient in the past few years. but you can get different grain effects based This is to keep items like motor oil, coolant, old paint, and other chemicals, including film developing chemicals, from going into the landfill. Recently picked up basically everything I'll need to start developing film in a Paterson tank. For $100 you can get a tank, reels, dark bag, squeegee, chemicals, archive sheets and a thermometer. i developed agfa in rodinal, and kodak in tmax. If you're really into this and want to do this regularly, I'd seriously recommend developing your own films yourself, specially if you have a small dark room in your house to spare. there are different kinds of developer, and they all work a little differently. They send out their B&W to Dwayne's in Kansas. One thing you can put on the table is: if you only want to make som cash to re-invest in film/paper, BW developing by hand and some prints are cheap to produce and you can offer good prices (use cheap and long shelf developers like Rodinal or HC110 in syrup) At least here in Europe, BW developing services are ridiculous expensive just because they're mostly hand performed. *(there are special cases. ECN-2 chemistry can also be used in conjunction with B&W chemistry to get really good results from E-6 films, because the color developing agent in E-6 (CD-3) is the same as in ECN-2. Finally, for scanning, I suggest the Raleno PLV-S192 LED panel, and the pixl-latr film holder. I'm planning on purchasing a negative scanner so that I can simply develop my rolls 2-at-a-time in my developing tank, dry them, and then scan them. TLDR: I wanted to start developing color negative film at home but read about the dangers of C41 leading to cancer and early death. Very quick turnaround, easy to pay for the services online, excellent quality developing, and has probably the slickest scanning setup you can get nowadays for high quality and speed. Color developing has different chemicals and is a little tough because of temperature control. UK local authorities should have arrangements for receiving small quantities of used or unwanted chemical wastes (such as paint, cleaning agents, bleach, weed killer, etc. You can readily dispose of thiosulphate by mixing it with hydrochloric acid and leaving it to react for a day or two (it takes just minutes if you shake and stir but letting it sit is easier). I only shoot a roll of B&W film every ~2 months and it appears most developers and fixers have a shelf life of ~6 months once opened/mixed. Then (back in the light) he puts in different chemicals for different amounts of time to develop the film and make it safe to be in the light, and hangs up the film on a clothesline or in a drying cabinet to dry from the chemicals. I'd like to start developing my own B&W film at home, however, I'm concerned it might not be economical given how frequently I need to develop. I seem to get better results developing C-41 films in ECN-2 chemicals for 5 minutes, than I do developing ECN-2 films in C-41 chemicals for any length of time. 5 minutes for color with the cinestill c41 kit, plus some additional time for washing off the chemicals. If you do the Cinestill Cs41 kits 11’30” for fresh chemicals. I've found sellers of new B&W double 8 film and would love to get some but I'd struggle to afford both the film and development on a student budget. Developing and drying the film takes about an hour, drying contributing the bulk of it. b&w, though. (Film) Switiching to B&W film exclusively and self developing using DIY recipes (i. Specially if you compare it with giving it out to some lab. A 300 is a universal powder acid fixer for films and papers that can be used for manual proces (1) Use a syringe and make up exactly what you need for the job at hand so that it is fresh and you get repeatable results. Haven't seen black and white though. If you're only developing a roll every few weeks, then storage of chemicals becomes an issue-- once you mix up the developer/stop/fix, the clock starts ticking, although the alarm goes off at different times depending on what chemical and how it's stored. ) at Household Waste and Recycling Centres. My totals were $40 for the tank/reels, $60 for the beakers/funnels/bottles, and about $32 for the chemicals. They share their experiences and tips. The only chemical that's technically the same is fixer, but something as small as using hardening or non-harding fixer can throw off the whole thing. I’d say by this point all told developing the film takes about 20 minutes for me for all the steps. Those are the only two chems you need to develop BnW film. Where I live, I can drop off items there at no charge and I generally go 2 or 3 times per year with my developing chems and motor oil etc. Each one of them has a different process and uses different chemicals. The film will be a negative image. Even with the price of postage it's still cheaper than Fotofast. My question is, how do I safely dispose of fixer, mainly, and if there are any other chemicals (in the developing process only) that I should also be concerned about their proper disposal. If you try developing know that b&w is easier. Fotofast is good quality and fast but it's very expensive. . Standard colour negative film (Kodak portra/ gold etc) uses a chemical process called c-41, look for a full kit, a 1L kit usually will cost about $30ish depending on where you're buying from. Next comes printing or scanning. I understand that the mix of developer and water needs to be at the specified temperature as per the massive dev chart page, but what about the other chemicals? Fixer, Stop Bath and Wetting Agent. great decission to start a film home developing. I’ve been developing black and white film for 2 decades and its not a steep learning curve. Those contain a Paterson tank, reels and al the chemicals you need. The film is made of chemicals. You still need the water baths and want to keep it from fluctuating too much, obviously, but I never had any real trouble with it and we had a pretty primitive system at my uni. The secret to consistent and successful developing is temperature and time. I havent processed any E6 yet, is it a big difference to C41? And can you recommend any Chemical Kits? I saw some from Cinestill and Tetenal. Considering that, it seems like I'd likely be wasting rather I have both b/w and c 41 film i want to get developed but don't want to pay exorbitant prices (like 35 dollars per roll) to get them developed. Overall, I highly recommend. You only have to buy developing gear once. You can scan 12 shots of 35 at once. Film Lab. (Lith printing uses very dilute lithographic film developer on photo paper, some bromoil printers feel developing paper in Rodinal is great, some people like dilute Dektol for really dense highlights on negs, but that's getting into specialty areas where you know exactly what you want a specific chemical to do). I am fairly new to developing and I have a question regarding the temperatures of the chemicals while developing 35mm film. They find it simpler and faster than black and white development, and… No matter what colour negative film you use*, you process that film %100 the same way with that kit without variation. stop and fixer is less important, just buy ilford I’m looking to buy some film developing chemicals so I can save on having to pay to develop all my films but I just wanted to know if I need two sets… Skip to main content Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home Film Processing Chemicals from Firstcall Photographic. Feb 7, 2023 · Mixing the chemicals. Reddit is a popular platform for film enthusiasts. All of this, in total, will add up. don’t use monobath, it’s a quick way to terrible results. the developer causes the chemical reaction in the film's silver halide crystals that have been exposed to the appropriate amount of light, turning them opaque. This is not a good place to simply share cool photos/videos or promote your own work and projects, but rather a place to discuss photography as an art and post things that would be of interest to other photographers. I think, all in, I spent less than $200 for my whole color developing kit (sous vide, thermometer, tank, changing bag, chemicals, storage, stirrer, chemicals). Chems can last for a long time, depending. Google "developing with Kodak flexicolor" and you'll find plenty of resources to get started. Unicolor, Cinestill, Arista, Tetenal, and Film Photography Project all have complete C41 developing kits. A C41 kit will develop any C41 film. The first step with your new chemicals is to mix them. Ive got a ton of black and white darkroom experience over the years and I've recently been developing a lot of 4x5 B+W in my bathroom. both are one shot developers, so you just dilute from the concentrate and then throw it. The cost to me is the same ($6. I'm about to launch my project on Kicstarter! Took me 5 months to get to this point. you can always develop in batches and mix the chemicals right before. Even caffenol and Vitamin C are chemicals. Get a dozen rolls, choose one developer and stick with that film and developer combination for a while -- like six months. Processing chemicals can be left there. I would do it myself if i can get the chemicals but am having a hard time finding them sold here and importing them is too expensive Al film rolls will have te same developing time. You'll get the best, and most consistent, results sticking with strictly C41 chemicals for C41 films. I use Shanghai GP3 100 and while it's cheap, the formulation is a couple of generations behind HP5 and Tri-X in terms of speed, grain and resolution. i’m playing around with caffenol at the mo and getting decent results, thinking of writing up a little blog soon about my experiences so far It all depends on what you're looking to do. Pretty easy to get back into. Reuse of developing chemicals Hi all! The last couple of days, I’ve shot 2 rolls of 35 mm Rollei rpx 100, and now I want to develop them, I still have the developing solution from adox (developer ,fixer) do you guys think it’s a good idea to reuse them, from what I’ve read on the internet it’s quite controversial… Bit of common advice: keep your water temperature and chemical temp the same and store your chemicals in brown bottles and in cool, dry places. I'm brand new to the world of film photography and video, but am totally hooked already. So now that you have all your chemicals at temperature, you need to do the same for film and developing tank. Jul 22, 2012 · Basically, you need three core chemicals (Dev, Stop*, Fix), with an optional two extra. Introducing True ECN-2 Processing. So not very expensive. I'll be using D-76 as the developer, Kodak Indicator Stop Bath for my stop and Ilford Rapid Fixer for my fixer. 75/roll with 2-3 day turnaround. Dev cheap Fujifilm 200 with Portra 400 at the same time. Price is competitive to importing from overseas also given our poor exchange versus usd. YOU are made of chemicals. My fiance heated up his chemicals to get ready to develop while he went to the camera store to get his film retrieved (the camera wound it up far enough the leader went in too), and is stuck in traffic. If interested I'm using an epson v500 for scanning. , but the cation doesn’t matter). I started this also a few years ago bcos the same reason - i wasn't happy with the lab's results and understood that the only wat to learn film photography is to develop my film rolls by myself. This is your one-stop-shop for discussions, news, events, and local happenings in this sunny Southern California region. they’ll last ages and you’ll get loads done from a bottle so it’s very cost effective in the long term. The kit (which retails for $100 from big retailers like B&H; you can also get it from Adorama, another big name—they seem to have it in stock) includes nearly everything you need to get started: a developing tank with two reels (so you can develop up to two rolls of 35mm at a time), a thermometer (glass, so you might want to invest in a cheap, easier to use instant-read digital thermometer Jul 22, 2012 · Basically, you need three core chemicals (Dev, Stop*, Fix), with an optional two extra. AuRA is a simple yet powerful rotary assist film developing machine with a built-in timer, smart speed control & audible notifications. Once you get into home developing black and white, you quickly see there are endless personal variations and experiments you can try with different developer chemistry, developing techniques, temperatures, pushing and pulling, stand developing, etc, and then combine that with the large variety of black and white film stocks available so much to play with! Today, I'll take you on a journey through the process, from sourcing the chemicals to producing stunning results. it develops the film. I've had the Kmart in Indro scratch my film and completely miss photos when scanning. I spent about $250 for everything I needed to develop B&W and color. If you want to get started, you can search for webshops who sell starter packs. Also, I recommend a developing app-- I use one called Film Developer Pro. Feb 20, 2022 · You'll get the best, and most consistent, results sticking with strictly C41 chemicals for C41 films. You'll get colour film at Esplanade. Most of the chemicals (stop bath, fixer, and photoflo) are safe… r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. BW developing costs 200-400 per roll. In this article, I’m going to focus on the 35mm black and white panchromatic film developing process. Color negative (c-41) requires temperature control and slide film (e6) its a pain 😂 it requires exact timing, exact temperature and haves 5 chemicals. (I set up a water bath in my sink) plastic water bottles to premix your chemicals and set them in a water bath to bring to appropriate temp. The companion product to Adotol is also made by Calbe. I doubt they have a policy for expired film because of chemical issues, more so for customers complaining/demanding refunds. The chemicals used by most of these shady studios are the cheapo stuff, and the methodology more than often far from perfect. Chemicals for black and white or c41 or e6? Black and white box in auckland stocks all those chemicals in powder or liquid form. It has 4 different rotary modes including "Easy" mode that simulates traditional manual film development. Hit up the YT channel "Art of Photography", and look for his videos on developing B&W film and developing C41 film. I wonder if it is really so dangerous that I shouldn’t use it in a small apartment bathroom or if there is an alternative processe for color film developing at home. However, extra time must be added to the processing to compensate for the weakened developer. Most chemicals reccommend around 20 Celcius. The second roll I shot was Ilford FP4+ 125 and that also had a 6:30 developing time, but this time with D76. caffenol dev which is made from coffee, acid stop bath from citrus fruits). Developing itself is fairly fast since the time in chemicals only amounts to about 11. You just saved $1855 (You can buy an Epson V850, your dev equipment, chemicals AND have left over spending money with this amount! 🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯) I’ve been scanning my film since day one (and recently started developing. There is usually a “chemical cupboard” in which chemicals are to be left. ) In two years I’ve more than paid for my scanning set up and all the developing equipment/chemicals. don't worry about them for the sake of this example) Black & white chemicals have absolutely nothing to do with C41 processing. On the note of the lab not developing your expired film, I assume that is because they don't want to develop film that you may not like the resulting negatives. I'm not an expert on color, but I use a complete C41 kit. However, most photo shops still develop color film in their machines, and it's super cheap. I easily recouped before my second set of chemicals. I want to start developing black & white, both 120mm & 35mm. Grab a camera and some film and get shooting. This needs to be done just once and repeated only when you get new chemicals after the old ones expire. I was also able to buy most of my gear second hand which kept costs down. You can use one B&W developer for most B&W film. Depending on the type of colour film you're using you might want/ need different chemicals. My local lab does C-41 processing in-house and it costs $6. If you're a film photographer, you've probably heard of ECN-2 film processing. This is for BW home developing. This article covers the best Jun 2, 2013 · I'm getting ready to begin developing my film at home (mainly 4x5). The only thing you often have to buy extra is a change bag. tbh it’s best to shoot a roll and start doing test strips, see what works and doesn’t. Fixer is almost always some form of thiosulphate salt (ammonium, sodium etc. yes i tried to educate myself about this but i need more information about developing film in case i don’t know or the articles i found online doesn’t have the information that maybe i need to know, plus there’s some other stuff that i don’t understand and i just wanted to ask everyone about it. It is important to follow the safety instructions provided by the manufacturer and to use personal protective equipment (PPE) such as gloves, eye protection, and a face mask when working with these chemicals. The developer is usually discarded after use. At a 1:50 dilution at 600 mL for 2 rolls, it can develop nearly 80 rolls of film. One caveat is that due to COVID-19 some of Flexicolor chemicals aren't easy to find at the moment. b&w film is b&w film so all applies really. Here’s how to check if your There are three types of film that you can develop at home: black and white negative film, color negative film, and slide film. personally, i liked to stick on-brand. I suggest a dark tent rather than a dark bag, and the Arista Premium reels (available from freestyle and adorama) are better than the Patterson reels, especially for 120 film. Flexicolor is also cheaper than kits, mostly because chemicals are sold in larger quantities. Time and temperature (of the water and chemicals) are very, very important. a good cheap developer which works well with kentmere 400 would be rodinal or hc-110. I scan all my own negatives at home using Epson V550, but I don't develop at home. That means it costs approximately $0. Now, if your question is a much reasonable "Can I develop film with a high degree of safety?" then, yes, there are developer, stop, and fix choices that are quite safe. However, I'm trying to understand what can be reused and what can't, and the best practices for diluting and then storing my chemicals. e. I now use Hillvale Photo in Melbourne. developing these 6 rolls at a lab - $36 developing at home - the cost of chems ($30?) (not including startup equipment) if all of you plan to keep shooting film, id say its worth the cost of buying c41 chems even if you dont go through all of it before it goes bad. Alternative Photography process discussion is also welcome. This may last the entire time, not sure, but fixer can go a long ways. To do that, measure the right amount of water (depends on how many films you're running at once, say you're doing a single roll of 35mm, so you'll need about 300mL), at 38 degrees (100F), pour that into the developing tank and set the tank into the water bath. Redditors generally have positive opinions about developing color film at home. I drop my film in an express parcel and in a couple of days i get the scans sent to me via dropbox. Reusing most developers is possible, but it is not simply a case of the chemical being used up that changes after use; various chemicals are released by development and oxidation takes place too if stored diluted. The camera that shot the film is made of chemicals. Apart from a sous vide machine for temp control is there anything else colour needs? Any chemical recommendations? Id rather buy chemicals individually than those basic colour kits you can find. About the chemicals - some BW developer and a fixer is exactly what you need. other than that there’s a lot of blogs/forums/videos online about developing by hand. This method is known for delivering exceptional color tones and dynamic range, typically used for motion picture films. Hi, I'm thinking of making the jump and starting to develop color neg film at home. See full list on analog. The owner/operator works at The Camera Store, so you can drop off film there, or one of the other spots. 75/roll) for develop-only, but the turnaround is about 2 weeks. You are welcome. Where I am really struggling is just getting a basic idea of what chemicals I'm going to need to develop c41 color film, but after much searching I havent found anything. No. Welcome to /r/orangecounty, the Reddit community for all things related to Orange County, California. But developing is not the only thing. /r/photography is a place to politely discuss the tools, technique and culture of photography. So my questions are: Is it worth buying the full starter kit, for example, the Ilford Paterson Film Processing Starter Kit Or is it worth shopping around? Perhaps picking up the bits of equipment/chemicals separately? Thanks for any insights in advance! In the interest of money saving how easy is C41 developing to start when I have the essentially for black and white film. Sep 10, 2024 · When it comes to film developing, many people seek advice online. Years ago I got a windup, 1970's Soviet made 8mm camera before I knew anything, and now I would love to use it. Thanks in advance! r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. Upfront cost is equipment and chemicals but overall you develop rolls for less than a lab. I have around 60 color positive films (slide films) in my freezer and decided to shoot all of them, before buying new film. Black and white developing chemicals, such as those used by Ilford, can be harmful to humans if not handled properly. (Film) Doing Ilford's "1 Litre Rinse Method" which reduces water waste from the development process. One Liter C-41 kits can be used to develop 20-25 rolls if you use them all within 3-4 months and properly extend dev time for later rolls (past roll 10). I’m super paranoid because this is only the third roll I’ve developed and the developing time is so much longer. r/Darkroom is Reddit's best place for discussions on film developing, printing, toning and hand-coloring prints, darkroom techniques, equipment and more. Colour film chemicals are made to be poured back into storage bottles at the end of a session and used multiple times. C41 is C41 is C41. Basically, you need three core chemicals (Dev, Stop*, Fix), with an optional two extra. Get a thermometer for sure, and keep things on the cooler end. cuuxqb rwh npqnlct sfij qrcm zos vqyt mcyd crjkjefy hybexjc